After an enjoyable afternoon at a taverna by the sea, we
decided to skip the village church and join the crowd in Sparta's main square.
Many people, young and old, were holding candles some of which had little drip-catcher attachments to keep hot wax from falling on hands or clothes.
The Big Friday event began with services in four local churches, culminating with moving the “epitaphs” (new meaning of that word!) each church had built and decorated with flowers. These represent Christ’s grave and each is more elaborate than the next (think of a miniature Rose Bowl float). One of our Greek friends said this was the first one she had ever seen one that was also electrified--she said it make her think of Las Vegas.
Many people, young and old, were holding candles some of which had little drip-catcher attachments to keep hot wax from falling on hands or clothes.
The Big Friday event began with services in four local churches, culminating with moving the “epitaphs” (new meaning of that word!) each church had built and decorated with flowers. These represent Christ’s grave and each is more elaborate than the next (think of a miniature Rose Bowl float). One of our Greek friends said this was the first one she had ever seen one that was also electrified--she said it make her think of Las Vegas.
The epitaphs are carried out of their churches and then lifted onto the shoulders of the carriers (in this case, there were several anxiety-provoking wobbles as they did so), and then carried to the central square by sufficiently hefty (one hopes) parishioners, preceded by robed prelates and their assistants carrying banners (see below) and followed by the faithful as they pour out of the church.
Other folks, like us, skip the service and head directly to
the central square, which was roped off around the four tables on which the
epitaphs would be placed. Surrounding
the central square, of course, are cafes.
So at least half the “participants” are watching the goings on with
their drinks or coffees in hand, children running around and across the square,
families chatting with one another—more of an “open air marketplace” than a “solemn
religious occasion” feeling. (We liked
that aspect.)
I also discovered the power of the camera. Having both a still and video camera with me
(one hung around my neck), I found I could move inside the rope barrier—I
didn’t press it in terms of standing in middle of things, so I missed the
straight-on photo of the dozen or so robed prelates (here's some fun back
and side photos, though).
But one skinny kid who couldn’t have been more than 11 was
going everywhere and apparently shooting everything—with his baseball hat on
backwards and his I-phone (or something similar) held in front of his face. Though there were clearly official
photographers moving through the main action, getting close-up shots of
everything, no one could have confused him with one of them…still, no one
challenged him, either.
Below is a video of one of the epitaphs being placed on its table in the central square. Behind the folks standing at the rope line are cafes full of others not entirely riveted by the spectacle. In about the middle of the video, the lovely sound of the traditional chant gets louder, perhaps because more of the parishioners following the epitaph from the church have arrived in the square.
One of the epitaphs is preceded by a uniformed brass marching band and then carried in on the shoulders of soldiers in camouflage uniforms. Several other soldiers accompany the epitaph with their guns held upside down and pointing backwards. I don't know if that was a safety measure or some other symbolism.
Below are pictures of all four epitaphs, one in the top photo and three in the bottom photo. However, in the second photo, the electrified epitaph is behind a flowered one (both are on the left of the photo)--unless you look closely, it seems as though the one in the foreground has an the electrified crown.
After the final epitaph arrives and is placed, all the robed prelates walk up to the front and begin a chant that many in the crowd also join into.
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